Why I Sew

When working with a student a few months ago who seemed to have a lot of angst about sewing, I wondered why she's even doing it. I didn't see any indication that she enjoyed a single aspect of sewing.
So that made me think about all the reasons why I sew, and here's what I came up with:

I love the challenge. I like puzzles, and sewing is a sort of puzzle. All the pieces have to fit together. Sometimes they don't quite fit, then you have something to figure out.

The world goes away. When I'm immersed in a project, I don't think about anything else. Years ago I went to a seminar with Shakti Gawain. She talked about meditation as something that consumed your consciousness--that doing anything that you focus on so much that you don't have room in your brain for anything else is a form of meditation. That's what happens when I'm alone in my studio.

I love the process. and that there is a process. I really do love that there is a rhythm to sewing, that there are certain steps you always do in order, starting with washing the fabric. No matter how accomplished a sewist is, they still have to cut the fabric before they sew it.

I always know when I'm done. I test software for a living, and with testing, you are never done (and wouldn't know if you ever were done.) I think this is one of the reasons that I've spent more time and energy on sewing since I got back into technology.

I love the sensual nature of (most) fabric. Fabric is sensual, as that is affects all your senses. The tactile part is pretty obvious, but I love the smell of steamed wool, the crisp snap of a high quality cotton, the swish of taffeta and the smooth coolness of silk satin. I do NOT like working with polyester. Go ahead, call me a fabric snob, I just don't like it.

I get great, well-fitting clothes out of the deal. Of all the things you can do with your time, how many past times result in something you need anyway? Especially these days when it's next to impossible to find anything made well enough to last more than a few months, or in fabric nice enough that you'd want it to last, even if you're able to pay top dollar, sewing gives you the chance to make what you want, make it out of good quality fabric, make with higher quality, and make it fit well.


So, if you're reading this, I'd love to hear why YOU sew (or why you're thinking about it.) Please share!!


Juliette

The Collared Shirt, Lesson 1

The Collared Shirt, Lesson 1 -- Front Placket

I started this series back in 2010, but I'm going to start over since I never followed through the last time and I've realized that many folks need more details and more photos to understand the construction steps.

I will assume the reader has a basic understanding of sewing terms and some experience sewing clothing. Please do not hesitate to post questions, though, if I've used a term you don't understand or you need more details.

This class is all about the sewing steps of the shirt, so you'll need to pick out the size, cut out all the pieces and apply interfacing on your own.
TO SIMPLIFY THE STEPS, I'VE ASSUMED YOU HAVE SELECTED VIEW A or B (covered placket).

The pattern: Kwik Sew 2849 -- Princess seam blouse 

Why I chose this pattern:

I really don't like side seam bust darts on shirts. Princess seams just seem more refined and more flattering on a wider range of bodies.
I also like the 1/4" seam allowances which require very little trimming. This does mean you need to be accurate when cutting out and sewing since you don't have much 'wiggle room'.

What you'll need for this lesson:

Left and right front shirt pieces with interfacing fused or basted in place
Straight edge ruler
Washable marking pencil/pen/chalk
Edge Stitch Foot (#10/C/D for Bernina owners) also called 'stitch in the ditch' or edge-joining foot.
Shirt front pattern piece

Let's get started!

Mark, fold and press.
I find it's much easier to mark a line to match the cut edge to instead of a line to fold on. I call this a "fold-to" line.

 

RIGHT FRONT:

1. Measure the distance between the front edge and the first fold line on the pattern (1 3/8").

2. DOUBLE this measurement (2 3/4")











3. Lay the RIGHT front piece right side down.

4. Mark a line on the WRONG side of the fabric 2-3/4" from the cut edge.

5. Fold the fabric (wrong sides together) so the front edge lines up with the mark you just made.

6. Press well.














7. Measure the distance from the first fold line to the second fold line (2-1/4")


8. Double this measurement (4-1/2")











9. Mark a line on the WRONG side of the fabric 4-1/2" FROM THE FOLDED EDGE.
















 
10. Fold the fabric so the folded edge lines up with this new mark.
(You'll now have two folds == 3 layers of fabric)

11. Press well.







12. Mark 1-1/8" from the new fold. You'll use this mark in the next section.

LEFT FRONT:
1. Repeat steps 1 - 6 above.






2. Open the fold and mark 1/2" from the CUT edge.

3. Fold so the cut edge lines up with the mark.

4.  Press well.

5. Fold first fold again and press well.

Sew the front plackets.

 
RIGHT FRONT:

1. Put the edge stitch foot on your machine.

2. Make sure the needle is the center position.

3. Line up the blade on the foot with your mark and sew the front placket.

4. Fold the facing back towards the front edge.
5. Press well.

LEFT FRONT:

1. Move the needle to the right (How far depends on your machine and sewing accuracy--you might want to practice first).

2. Line up the blade on the foot with inside fold and sew the front placket.

AND YOU ARE DONE! (with lesson 1, at least :)  )

Next up: Princess Seams

Fabric Shopping in Austin

Yes, you read that right. There is now some serious, quality fabric shopping in Austin, Texas.
Mom and I spent the afternoon on Thursday making the rounds to our favorite stores: Sew Much More, The Common Thread and TexStyles.
We hit Sew Much More for the great sale. I ordered a bias binder, Mom got a part she needed for her Elna, a Chalkoner, and we each bought a rolling cart of drawers so I could better organize all my trims.

Our first fabric stop was The Common Thread on South Lamar.
Jeannie has a great selection of quality fabrics--silks, bamboo/lycra knits, quality flannels, organic cotton blends.

Mom picked up an abstract print rayon/lycra jersey, a cotton peacock print from the Victoria & Albert Museum and a GORGEOUS Valentino print on silk charmeuse.

The makeup bag I made for Mom with the peacock fabric. I monogrammed the "S".

The fun flannel print I picked up for a new pair of pajamas.

The amazing Valentino print silk







If you're in the need of some gorgeous fabrics, real petersham, or Russian/French veil, stop by and visit Jeannie. She can also order lots of fabrics if she doesn't have exactly what you are looking for.

Happy Sewing!
Juliette

Even Boys Like It!

About 2 weeks ago, my neighbor came by with her son to have me fit a dress for her vow renewal. Her son is about 8, and apparently her stylist. I could tell by the way he looked at her in her dress, clearly looking at the fit and design and how it flattered her, that he has an eye. After the fitting, I set up my 830 to embroider his name since I thought he might get a kick out of it. Well, he was mesmerized. And when it was done, he already had decided which bag he wanted it put on. I told him I would some better ones for him, and here they are:

I realized that kids just don't get the exposure to mechanical things like I did as kid. My dad and brother were always working on our cars, we did most of our own home repairs, and my mom sewed. I think kids are really missing out--another reason for more people to get sewing!

Juliette

The Upcycled Chanel Jacket

My last post showed the first steps of a new Chanel jacket. The original garment was a swing coat my aunt wore in the 60's, probably made by my grandmother. The fabric is a gorgeous classic: a very loose weave mohair houndstooth in off-white and black:

I decide the only way to reuse this fabric was a classic Chanel jacket. I used Susan Khalje's method featured in Threads Magazine issue 121.
I was able to cut the jacket body out with problems, but did have to piece both the upper and under sleeves. I've been watching a lot of Mad Men lately, so decided to go with a shorter sleeve, which I believe is called bracelet length. The sleeves ended up being the same length as the jacket.




I combined purchased trim with torn strips of black silk charmeuse that I ran through the ruffler on the 830LE:

And here's the (almost) finished jacket. (I still need to finish the lining at the top of one sleeve and add the chain along the bottom. I'll probably add pockets as well.  What do you think? the classic 2 large and one small? Cut on grain or on the bias?


Decisions, decisions.

Happy Sewing!
Juliette

In Praise of the Dual Feed

One of the features of the Bernina 830 that I underestimated is the dual feed. I've often wished I could switch out the feet on my walking foot, and the dual feed foot essentially does that. Only a handful of feet are available for use with the dual feed, but they are enough to make me very happy. There are more, but so far I have the edge stitch foot, jean foot, 1/4" patchwork foot with guide and the standard foot that came with the machine. The dual feed makes everything easier, whether it's matching a design, quilting charmeuse to boucle, or stitching seams on a stretch knit.

Below are a couple of shots of the 1D foot.

In the first photo you can see the "arm" that slips between the legs of the foot:

And here you can see the mechanism behind the foot: the whole thing swings down for use and back up and out of the way when you don't need it:

 

This is the beginning of re-purpose project. I've taken apart a coat of my aunt's from the 60's to make a Chanel style jacket. Can't wait to finish it and for it to cool off enough for me to wear it!

Happy Sewing,

Juliette

Love my Baby(Lock)

With all my going on about my wonderful Berninas, I realized this weekend that I haven't given any credit/praise/love to my BabyLock Evolution which I bought earlier this year. This is my second overlock/coverstitch combination machine. My first (which I still have) is an ElnaPro DCX 905. It was one of the first home machines to offer a coverstitch. This machine is about 17 years old, so I decided that it was time to look for a newer overlock. I wanted at least 5 threads for a safety stitch + 3-thread overlock, which quickly narrowed the options. I looked at other options, but quickly settled on the BabyLock for its reputation for quality, and the Evolution for the 8 threads that provide so many options.

Compared to the Elna, the BabyLock seems very low tech, but looks can be deceiving.

My 17+ year old Elna:                                              

 

The pretty new BabyLock (photo from BL site): 

 

The cover stitch on the BabyLock is beautiful. I love that there are 2 widths, though I've had some trouble with the wider one tunneling on light fabrics. I just used the narrower one to apply elastic on a peasant top. So much easier and faster than sewing a casing with a regular sewing machine! I was able to sew the entire top on my BabyLock, and the air threading makes switching between overlock and cover stitch even easier.

This is closeup of  both the right and wrong side:

...and the finished top, dyed: