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Friday, December 31, 2010

The Collared Shirt, Part II: Felled Seams

Here's the next part in my collared shirt class: (Flat) Felled Seams

1.     Lay one front and back right or wrong sides together*(depending on finished seam desired), offsetting by approx. 1/8”
* If you want the finished seam to have one row of stitching visible, place RIGHT sides together.
If you want the finished seam to have two rows of stitching visible, place WRONG sides together.

2.     Press the under layer over the top layer 1/8” for approx 2”

3.     With needle in CENTER position, using lapped seam foot, place fabric under presser foot and stitch approx 1”.

4.     With needle DOWN, raise presser foot. Carefully place under layer over tongue of presser foot and lower presser foot.

5.     Complete sewing seam. (it is okay if the folded layer is not completely caught in the stitching)

6.     Press seam flat.

7.     Open seam and press flat from wrong side with raw edge underneath.

8.     Place the fabric under the presser foot and take a few stitches.

9.     With needle DOWN, lift presser foot, place fold over tongue of presser foot, lower presser foot.

10. Stitch seam, aligning first row of stitching with inside edge of right toe of presser foot.

11. Press seam flat.
12. Repeat for other side seam, shoulder seams and sleeve/underarm seams.

That's it! You now have a beautifully finished seam. I used the narrow Lap Seam foot for this shirt. The wider one is great for heavier fabrics and a more casual look.

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

The Collared Shirt, Part I: Center Front Placket

This is the first installment in my posts covering the collared shirt class I just taught here in Austin, TX.

I used Kwik Sew 2849 which is a princess seamed shirt with separate collar and stand.

Step 1: Mark the "fold to" lines

I've found it much easier to mark the line I need to fold to rather than the one I need to fold on. So, if my fold line is 1-1/2" from the cut edge, I mark 3" from the edge, then fold over and line up the cut edge with the marking.

Step 2: Fold to form the CF placket
Depending the view you selected (expose buttons or covered placket), this may be as many as 3 folds on the right front)

Step 3: Press well

Step 4: Put the edge stitch foot on your machine
(that's 10/10C to Bernina drivers).

Edge stitching with the 10C foot
Step 5: Move the needle position one to the right

Step 6: Place the fabric wrong side up under the presser foot
Make sure the folded placket is to the right of the needle

Step 7: Line up the center blade of the foot with the folded edge

Step 8: Sew along the placket edge

Step 9: Press well

Step 10: Repeat all steps for the other side front piece

The Best Buttonhole Cutter-Evah!

A new sewing buddy who I met in class earlier this month introduced me to this awesome buttonhole cutter. (Thanks Leslie in Austin!)
This is a scalpel, so easy to hurt yourself, but it is so sharp you only need a little pressure to cut through fabric--even layers of denim! I got this one at my Bernina dealer, Sew Much More. I think it was $3.99. So much better than my old chisel and hammer. (Though I will NEVER give up my "sewing" hammer. You'll see why soon--I'll start posting the steps for my shirt class here, and a hammer is invaluable.)