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Friday, December 31, 2010

The Collared Shirt, Part II: Felled Seams

Here's the next part in my collared shirt class: (Flat) Felled Seams

1.     Lay one front and back right or wrong sides together*(depending on finished seam desired), offsetting by approx. 1/8”
* If you want the finished seam to have one row of stitching visible, place RIGHT sides together.
If you want the finished seam to have two rows of stitching visible, place WRONG sides together.

2.     Press the under layer over the top layer 1/8” for approx 2”

3.     With needle in CENTER position, using lapped seam foot, place fabric under presser foot and stitch approx 1”.

4.     With needle DOWN, raise presser foot. Carefully place under layer over tongue of presser foot and lower presser foot.

5.     Complete sewing seam. (it is okay if the folded layer is not completely caught in the stitching)

6.     Press seam flat.

7.     Open seam and press flat from wrong side with raw edge underneath.

8.     Place the fabric under the presser foot and take a few stitches.

9.     With needle DOWN, lift presser foot, place fold over tongue of presser foot, lower presser foot.

10. Stitch seam, aligning first row of stitching with inside edge of right toe of presser foot.

11. Press seam flat.
12. Repeat for other side seam, shoulder seams and sleeve/underarm seams.

That's it! You now have a beautifully finished seam. I used the narrow Lap Seam foot for this shirt. The wider one is great for heavier fabrics and a more casual look.

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