Bernina 830 Dual Feed

Yesterday was my second full day with my new 830LE. I don't have any photos I can share since I was finishing up two challenge entries and cannot post any photos until after the judging has been done.
I did start on a pair of jeans, and will post photos when they're done.

I used the dual feed for the first time yesterday, and anyone who has worked on stretch denim will appreciate this feature. If you aren't familiar with dual feed, it is essentially a built-in walking foot. You need to use special feet (D) since the dual feed pops down right behind the needle. Yeah, I know, more feet and Bernina feet are so expensive, but hey, they work really, really well, and most dealers have regular sales, so you can save if you plan well. Sure the feet for my older Elna were a fraction of the cost, but they didn't work anywhere near as well. It always took 2 passes to insert an invisible zipper, and I could never get a rolled hem right. This just isn't the case with my Berninas.
The 830 does come with 2 dual feed feet, 1D and 4D(zipper foot) and I purchased the D version of my favorite foot, the 10D, edge stitch.
I ended up using the dual feed for most of the sewing on these jeans since it really helped minimize distortion when edge and top stitching, and even seemed to help on the seams.
The machine was a little fussy with jean thread in the needle, but slowed down and was careful when starting seams, and we got along fine.

I embroidered the pockets, and though I think I've already mentioned it, the auto-stop when a thread breaks is really nice. My 730E just keeps going for a bit, so I always have to roll back to where the thread broke. The speed control on the front of the machine is nice, too.

My dear friend Mimi is coming over today to work on a table cloth, so I'll have more to report later today.

Happy Sewing!
Juliette

The Most Awesome Bernina Ever

I never thought I'd make this move, but I may be able to blame it in part on the temporary insanity and general disorientation caused by being suddenly out of a job. Of course, that whole event is what made this possible in the end.
Short story: I got laid off (first time in over 20 years) but found a new job in less than 2 weeks, so my husband declared the severance pay I received as "found" money. I had already planned to attend a Bernina Pillow Party at my dealer's store, but really didn't think I'd be buying one any time soon. The marketing geniuses (I am not being snarky here--rare, I know) at Bernina host these workshops at dealers everywhere. They send brand new machines which participants get to use, and provide all materials. You spend about 3-1/2 hours being walked through a project where you do decorative, embroidery and quilting stitches. We even did buttonholes. It really is a brilliant idea--what better way to see you on a machine than letting you do a project on one?
So here's the real hook: Because these machines are now used, they are offered at a discount. They offer financing (I got 36 months no interest), and bonus accessories. In my case I got a jumbo hoop and a 30% one-day shopping spree. Since I bought the Limited Edition, I also got a USB stick and 1000 embroidery designs which don't come with the regular model.
So, finally, in true techy nerd tradition, I documented the unboxing. I love electronics, but nothing is better than sewing electronics.
The Bernina 830 comes in two big boxes. I'm not a wimp, but I could barely get the machine box up the 6 steps to my studio.  I think the machine must weigh over 40 pounds.

Here you can see the extension table, box of presser feet (9, including 2 "d" models for use with the dual feed) and collector's tin with thread(Bernina colors) and a Limited Edition USB stick.

Inside the tin and box of presser feet.
The boxes underneath contain all the manual, CD, accessories pamphlets, etc.

Underneath all the other goodies is the machine!
I was a little disappointed that this machine did not come with a case, but the cover is pretty serious--thick, padded and possibly even insulated. Meh, I'll be making my own cover anyway, and I used the 30% off to buy the Tutto case set.

...and the rest of the goodies from the main box: accessory "wardrobe", box-o-tools, BSR foot, etc.

And the embroidery unit goodies--3 hoops (the Jumbo Hoop is on order).

and finally, everything set up and ready to go:

Getting a little crowded on my machine work table:

I'll have more details on the machine and my favorite features (it's a long list!)

Happy Sewing,
Juliette

Vintage Apron

I recently tried out a vintage pattern that came from my grandmother. The date stamped on one of the pattern pieces is "1916". The pattern pieces have no printing, only punch holes and notches. The "instructions" are printed on the back of the envelope--about 3 sentences for each view. No details on finishing seams, applying lace trim or sewing the straps. The view I chose has a bib, but no neck band since one is clearly expected to pin the bib to their clothing.
Image to follow...

The Collared Shirt, Part II: Felled Seams

Here's the next part in my collared shirt class: (Flat) Felled Seams

1.     Lay one front and back right or wrong sides together*(depending on finished seam desired), offsetting by approx. 1/8”
* If you want the finished seam to have one row of stitching visible, place RIGHT sides together.
If you want the finished seam to have two rows of stitching visible, place WRONG sides together.

2.     Press the under layer over the top layer 1/8” for approx 2”

3.     With needle in CENTER position, using lapped seam foot, place fabric under presser foot and stitch approx 1”.

4.     With needle DOWN, raise presser foot. Carefully place under layer over tongue of presser foot and lower presser foot.

5.     Complete sewing seam. (it is okay if the folded layer is not completely caught in the stitching)

6.     Press seam flat.

7.     Open seam and press flat from wrong side with raw edge underneath.

8.     Place the fabric under the presser foot and take a few stitches.

9.     With needle DOWN, lift presser foot, place fold over tongue of presser foot, lower presser foot.

10. Stitch seam, aligning first row of stitching with inside edge of right toe of presser foot.

11. Press seam flat.

12. Repeat for other side seam, shoulder seams and sleeve/underarm seams.

That's it! You now have a beautifully finished seam. I used the narrow Lap Seam foot for this shirt. The wider one is great for heavier fabrics and a more casual look.

The Collared Shirt, Part I: Center Front Placket

This is the first installment in my posts covering the collared shirt class I just taught here in Austin, TX.


I used Kwik Sew 2849 which is a princess seamed shirt with separate collar and stand.


Step 1: Mark the "fold to" lines
I've found it much easier to mark the line I need to fold to rather than the one I need to fold on. So, if my fold line is 1-1/2" from the cut edge, I mark 3" from the edge, then fold over and line up the cut edge with the marking.

Step 2: Fold to form the CF placket
Depending the view you selected (expose buttons or covered placket), this may be as many as 3 folds on the right front)

Step 3: Press well



Step 4: Put the edge stitch foot on your machine
(that's 10/10C to Bernina drivers).

Edge stitching with the 10C foot

Step 5: Move the needle position one to the right

Step 6: Place the fabric wrong side up under the presser foot
Make sure the folded placket is to the right of the needle


Step 7: Line up the center blade of the foot with the folded edge

Step 8: Sew along the placket edge

Step 9: Press well

Step 10: Repeat all steps for the other side front piece

The Best Buttonhole Cutter-Evah!

A new sewing buddy who I met in class earlier this month introduced me to this awesome buttonhole cutter. (Thanks Leslie in Austin!)
This is a scalpel, so easy to hurt yourself, but it is so sharp you only need a little pressure to cut through fabric--even layers of denim! I got this one at my Bernina dealer, Sew Much More. I think it was $3.99. So much better than my old chisel and hammer. (Though I will NEVER give up my "sewing" hammer. You'll see why soon--I'll start posting the steps for my shirt class here, and a hammer is invaluable.)

 I

ASDP Annual Conference -- The Challenge continues...

This was the second year I'd entered the Threads for ASDP challenge, and the first time I was named a finalist. The bar is incredibly high in these challenges, since it is only open to association members, all professionals. I'm very proud of the work I did, and approached it as a personal challenge, not a contest. This year's challenge was "Suit Your Style", and required us to start with Vogue pattern 2898 and using pattern alterations, make something new. Our final patterns were submitted as part of the judging. I did not win, but got excellent feedback from Judith Neukam from Threads Magazine and Julianne Bramson, who was also judge in this challenge. I also got rave reviews from my fellow members, which is always an honor considering the talent and skill in this group.



The only criticism I from the judges was on the curve on the jacket at the waist. It had given me pause, but I couldn't figure out how to change it to be more flattering.

As you can see, the outward curve of the purple sort of "short circuits" the slimming effect of the black side panel, giving the illusion of a wider waist rather than a slimmer one.

Sooo, being oh so slightly obsessive, and seeing this as another step in the overall Challenge, I plan to redraft the pattern and recut the jacket. (Still undecided about reproducing the embroidery, though I LOVE it.)

Here's what I'm considering--through the magic of Pixelmator, I've "adjusted" the curve on the right, making it deeper towards the center front and pushing it up towards the armscye.  Now that I look at it, it almost look like a boob lift. :)

For those interested, here are some specifics on my materials:
Jacket and skirt: Wool gabardine from Fabric. com
Jacket lining: hand-dyed (by me) silk charmeuse from C&J Textiles
Skirt Lining: Black silk charmeuse from The Common Thread, Austin, TX
Embroidery: 2 designs from UrbanThread.com--severely altered by me, using Embird Software

All sewing and embroidery was done using Madeline, my brilliant Bernine 730E.

I will keep you posted as I make progress on the "new and improved" jacket.