***Update*** I don't know why I was making this more complicated than needed. Why oh why would you cut 5 and 4" strips when 4" is plenty??
Directions
for pleated fabric masks
***I will
add photos this evening for more clarity. Please let me know if you have any
questions.
I’ve read
quite a few descriptions and discussions about these masks. The bottom line is
that they aren’t as effective as the medical grade, but they’re better than
nothing, and many hospitals are in dire need of anything to help protect their
staff and help make what supplies they do have last longer.
I’m using
instructions I found online and have elaborated on the instructions and made a
couple of minor changes to make things go faster and improve the function.
Cotton
sheets will also work.
The
instructions I've provided here are for a a simple pleated mask with filter
pocket and fabric ties. Based on feedback from friends in health care, these
are preferred for medical settings over elastic loops since they can be
sterilized.
N95 covers:
Some
health professionals are using these homemade covers to extend the life of N95
masks. I just learned from a friend in radiology that there are (at least) two
styles of N95 masks: Cup shaped (similar to dust masks you buy at Home Depot),
and duckbill. The pleated face mask can be used with the cup shaped N95, but
not the duckbill.
Ray works in radiology in the ER
in an Austin area hospital. He usually wears a surgical mask, and is now
wearing the cotton mask over it. They are only supposed to wear N95 masks
around high-risk patients that are being given CPR or being intubated.
**************
Face mask with filter pocket and fabric ties.
These
instructions use semi-production methods to make a large number of masks more
quickly
What
you'll need for a single mask:
- 1 piece of fabric, 6x9"
- 2 pieces of contrasting fabric, each 4x9"
- 2 - 34" lengths of 1-1/2 bias
Here's how I make this go faster when making multiple masks at once:
Public fabric:
- Cut or tear a strip of the
"public" fabric 6" wide
- Cut into
9" lengths
Lining fabric:
- Cut or
tear a strip of lining fabric 4" wide
- Overlock
one long edge of the strip of lining fabric
- Cut into 9" lengths--you'll use two of these for each mask
Fabric ties:
- Take a large piece of fabric (bedsheets are great for this) and fold point to point so fold is on 45 degree angle to finished edges
- Line up folded edge to a straight line.
- Using a rotary cutter and straight edge, cut 1-1/2" strips.
Sewing the mask:
- Place two pieces of lining fabric (overlapping) rights side together with the public fabric, with the finished edges of the lining in the
middle of the mask.
- Using a
1/4" seam allowance and a short stitch length (2.2 - 2.5mm), sew along the two long edges.
- Turn right
side out and press.
- Stitch a
1/4" along the top edge to create a casing for the nose bridge piece
- Machine
baste along each short end while creating three deep tucks. Make sure tucks on
both sides point in the same direction
- If you have a bias binder for your machine*:
- Mark the center point of the two bias strips
- Feed one strip into the bias binder, sewing until the mark is about to reach the needle.
- Feed the mask in as you sew so the binding wraps around the short side of the mask.
- Continue to sew until the ties is complete
- Repeat for the other tie and side of the mask.
*If you don't have a bias binder for your machine:
- Fold and
press the bias in half lengthwise, then fold each raw edge towards the center
fold (this will give you a "C" fold bias strip.)
- At the
center point of the bias strip, wrap around the short ends of the mask and sew
from one end of the bias strip to the end
- Repeat for
the other long edge.
7. Trim the end of the fabric ties and knot.
8. Make a small slit
along the top edge of the lining fabric and insert a twist tie. This can be
bent along the bridge of the wear's nose to give a closer fit